Performance Equine now has a 3 meter endoscope!! What does this mean? It means we can now do gastroscopy in order to properly diagnose conditions such as gastric ulcers, phytobezoars, pyloric stenosis,  and other disorders of the equine stomach .

The most common use for this scope will be to diagnose gastric ulcers. Gastric ulcers are ulcerations in the lining of the stomach. Having your horse’s stomach scoped is the only definitive way to diagnose your horse with gastric ulcers. Gastric ulcers are a common problem in horses, and all ages and breeds are susceptible.  Gastric ulcers can lead to a variety of symptoms including acute colic, recurrent colic, chronic diarrhea, poor weight gain, decreased appetite, attitude changes, and even poor performance.  There are increased risk factors for your horse developing ulcers, which include any type of stress, recent travel,  a high grain diet,  stall confinement,  and NSAID use (such as Bute or Banamine).  Once ulcers are diagnosed and proper treatment is done, many owners report improvement in attitude, body condition, and performance of their horse.

Scoping allows us to visualize the inside of the stomach so we can see if ulcers are present and the severity of the ulcers. Your horse will be sedated for the procedure. The endoscope is passed through the horse’s nostrils down his esophagus into his stomach. We are able to fully visualize the lining of the stomach and the opening into the small intestine, where ulcers can also be present.  Your horse will also need to be properly fasted for this procedure.

Please call the office if you would like to schedule a scope or would like more information.

Meet Riff – Born 4/1/2012 at Performance Equine Vets! He is a gorgeous bay TB colt owned by Amanda Cregg of Skaneateles, NY! His dam is Analee, a TB mare owned by Martin Cregg and his sire is Cibby, a 2002 TB stallion owned by Dealisadeal Farm of Loxahatchee, FL. Cibby was the Grand Champion at the 2010 National Polo Pony Show and he has played the US Open with Mike Azzaro in 2008, Juan Martin Nero in 2010 & 2011.

We hope this interview will provide our readers with a greater understanding of these particular services and how better to use them in a successful breeding operation.

AH: Explain briefly the Embryo Transfer (ET) process, starting with how an egg is fertilized.

SJ: In the donor mare an egg is released from the ovary and travels into the fallopian tube where it meets the sperm and fertilization takes place. After fertilization the embryo enters the uterus in approximately 6 days. Once in the uterus the embryo is mobile and moves around quite a bit. We are flushing and transferring the embryo in this mobile stage. Approximately 16 days after transfer to the recipient mare, the embryo will physically attach to the recipient’s uterus. The embryo’s movement throughout the uterus is actually very important and is thought to play a role in maternal recognition of the pregnancy.

AH: How old is the embryo when you transfer it to the recipient?

SJ: 7 days typically although that can vary with different mares and stallions.

AH: How long does it take on average, start to finish, to complete an ET and confirm a pregnancy? How many days should a client expect to wait for an ET to be completed?

SJ: The Donor mare cycle will typically last 3-7 days, she is then flushed at 7 days and we can determine if the recipient mare is pregnant 4-5 days later. This is 11-12 days from the ovulation date. The entire process can take a month sometimes to complete if a mare is “dirty” and needs to be cleaned up for her next cycle. We do have the ability to short-cycle a mare, meaning that we can shorten the time between cycles. This is sometimes done if stallion semen is delayed and we miss our window of opportunity to inseminate the donor mare.

AH: Can I use my own mares as recipients? What are the problems with using the mares at my farm?

SJ: The synchronization of the donor and recipient is one of the most important aspects. The recipient mare MUST ovulate in a very small window in order to receive an embryo from the donor mare. Attempting to manage this process on a client’s farm is difficult and costly. Daily farm calls just to cycle and medically manage a client’s recip mares runs up the cost dramatically. The mares I keep in the PEVS recip herd have an ideal uterus. They are young, usually under 10 years of age. The key to having a high success rate for embryo transfers depends on the ability to transfer a CLEAN embryo into a CLEAN uterus and have it maintained in that environment till term. At PEVS, our recipient mares are managed on a daily basis to perform that function.

AH: What is the success rate at PEVS for ETs?

SJ: Each mare’s fertility is quite variable so pregnancy rates are not the same for every mare. Currently, our success rate for transferring a viable embryo into a recipient and having it stick is about 85%. There’s always the risk that a client falls into the 15% which don’t take. When this happens the cost increases. But, by utilizing the embryo transfer process, a client with a valuable mare can recover and transfer multiple embryos in a single season, greatly increasing the number of foals produced.

AH: Briefly explain how your recipient herd is managed to maximize results for ETs done at PEVS.

SJ: All of our recipient mares are considered ideal. If I don’t like them, we don’t use them. Each mare is checked daily and kept current on vaccinations and deworming. They are cultured before and during the breeding season to insure they are clean. They are given medications to speed up their cycle and sometimes slow it down in order to synchronize them with the donor mare. We treat our recips with anti-inflammatories and antibiotics at the time of transfer to improve our success rates. People often ask about the quality, temperament and behavior of the PEVS recipient mares. Our mares are all gentle, halter broke mares. They are in excellent condition and ready to go home with clients once a pregnancy is confirmed.

AH: What are some of the drugs used when doing ETs?

SJ: There are a wide variety of drugs that we use to manage the ET process. Here are a few examples. Prostaglandins are most commonly used to shorten the interovulatory period or short-cycle the mare. Progestogens or Progesterones (ie. Regumate) can be used for multiple reasons such as shortening the duration of transitional season, synchronization of ovulation among multiple mares, maintenance of pregnancy, and also suppression of estrus. Oxytocin is used quite frequently, mostly for uterine evacuation but can also be used to accelerate uterine involution and even to promote milk production in the mare post foaling. Deslorelin is our drug of choice to induce ovulation but hCG is also used sometimes. We use various antibiotics to treat uterine infections, the choices depend on the culture results obtained. The ones we use most frequently are SMZ, Naxcel, Penicillin, and Timentin.

AH: What is the average cost for an ET? What typically increases the average cost?

$4500-$5500 is typical. The cost can increase due to mare difficulties including abnormal cycles or uterine infections, reproductive conformation, and body condition to name a few. Stallion factors can also increase the cost. Poor semen quality, poor fertility rates, and unreliable semen shipments can cause delays. Delays in time arrising from these problems can lengthen the entire process, and that directly affects the cost.

AH: From a Vet’s point of view, what is the #1 problem with doing ETs?

SJ: The most important part of the entire process is the transfer of the embryo. It is often discussed in Veterinary circles that your first 100 transfers are just practice until you get your technique down and get good at the process. It is nearly impossible to be proficient at transferring embryos unless you do them all the time. Our success with embryo transfers is directly related to the fact that we have years of experience getting the job done.

AH: How can a breeder use the ET process to improve their operation?

SJ: The most common reason is to produce offspring from valuable mares that are still in their prime show career. Another reason is to increase foal production from valuable stallions and mares during the season. The embryo transfer process allows you to recover multiple embryos in a single season. If you’ve got a good mare – stallion combo, simply increasing production of that pair can greatly improve the bottom line for a breeding operation.

Tall fescue is a grass which grows on over 35 million acres of land in the United States.  As many as 700,000 horses may graze fescue pastures or be fed fescue hay each year.  Many of these pastures contain fescue that is infected with an endophytic fungus that is toxic to horses.  When the horse ingests the grass, it is steadily poisoned by alkaloids produced by the fungus.

What many owners may not realize is that there are some significant health risks associated with horses eating endophyte fungus-infected tall fescue.  Some of these problems can be minimized with careful management of horses and pastures.  Follow these management tips from the American Association of Equine Practitioners (AAEP) to reduce the risks of health problems caused by EI tall fescue:

1. Have your pasture tested to determine the level of infection.
2. Mow fields prior to the development of seed heads, which contain the highest levels of toxins in the plant.
3. Remove horses from EI fescue pastures in conditions of extreme heat and drought.
4. Remove broodmares from EI fescue pastures 30 days prior to breeding and 60 – 90 days prior to foaling.
5. Keep accurate records of breeding and anticipated foaling dates.
6. Notify your veterinarian for initiation of drug therapy if your mare has been grazing EI fescue prior to foaling.
7. Monitor the mare closely during late pregnancy.
8. Contact your veterinarian if impending signs of birth, including udder development, relaxation of vulva, and muscles around the tailhead fail to develop within the expected timeframe.
9. Attend the birth.  If mare fails to show signs of normal birth progression, contact your veterinarian immediately.
10. Keep mares and foals off EI fescue until after weaning to prevent poor milk production.

If replanting a pasture, it is extremely important that all infected plants and seeds be destroyed prior to sowing.  Discuss the best methods for eliminating stands of infected fescue with an agronomist, toxicologist or your county extension agent.

For more information about treating EI fescue problems in your horse, contact your equine veterinarian and request “Fescue:  Minimizing the Risk to Your Horse’s Health,” a brochure provided by the AAEP in conjunction with Educational Partners Bayer Animal Health and Purina Mills.  Additional information can also be found on the AAEP’s horse health Web site, www.myHorseMatters.com.

Reprinted with permission from the American Association of Equine Practitioners.

High-quality hay can be an important source of essential nutrients in your horse’s diet. A horse’s protein and energy requirements depend on age, stage of development, metabolism and workload. A mature horse will eat 2 to 2.5% of its body weight a day, and for optimum health, nutritionists recommend that at least half of this should be roughage such as hay.  For a 1000-pound horse, that means at least 10 pounds of roughage each day.

Hay generally falls into one of two categories – grasses or legumes.  Legume hay is higher in protein, energy, calcium and vitamin A than grass hays. While hay alone may not meet the total dietary requirements of young, growing horses or those used for high levels of performance, high-quality hay may supply ample nutrition for less active adult horses.

Once you’ve determined the best category of hay for your horse, most people select hay based on how it looks, smells and feels.  Use the following tips from the American Association of Equine Practitioners to select the best hay for your horse:

1. It’s what’s inside that counts.  Ask that one or several bales are opened so you can evaluate the hay inside the bales.  Do not worry about slight discoloration on the outside, especially in stacked hay.
2. Choose hay that is as fine-stemmed, green and leafy as possible, and is soft to the touch.
3. Avoid hay that is overcured, excessively sun-bleached, or smells moldy, musty, dusty or fermented.
4. Select hay that has been harvested when the plants are in early bloom for legume hay or before seed heads have formed in grasses.  Examine the leaves, stems and flowers or seed pods to

determine the level of maturity.

1. Avoid hay that contains significant amounts of weeds, dirt, trash or debris.
2. Examine hay for signs of insect infestation or disease.  Be especially careful to check for blister beetles in alfalfa.  Ask the grower about any potential problems in the region.
3. Reject bales that seem excessively heavy for their size of feel warm to the touch, as they could contain excess moisture that could cause mold, or worse, spontaneous combustion.
4. When possible, purchase and feed hay within a year of harvest to preserve its nutritional value.
5. Store hay in a dry, sheltered area out of the rain, snow and sun, or cover in the stack to protect it from the elements.
6. When buying in quantity, have the hay analyzed by a certified forage laboratory to determine its actual nutrient content.

Remember that horses at different ages and stages of growth, development and activity have different dietary requirements.  Consult your veterinarian or a qualified equine nutritionist when formulating your horse’s ration.  He or she can help you put together a balanced diet that is safe, nutritious and cost-effective.

For more information about choosing hay, ask your equine veterinarian for the “Hay Quality and Horse Nutrition” brochure, provided by the AAEP in partnership with Educational Partners Bayer Animal Health and Purina Mills, Inc.  More information about nutrition also can be found online at the AAEP’s horse health Web site,  www.myHorseMatters.com.

Reprinted with permission from the American Association of Equine Practitioners.

Because of advances in nutrition, management and health care, horses are living longer, more useful lives. It’s not uncommon to find horses and ponies living well into their 20s and 30s.  While genetics play a role in determining life span, you too, can have an impact.

You may think that turning your old-timer out to pasture is the kindest form of retirement. But horses are individuals.  Some enjoy being idle; others prefer to be a part of the action.  Whatever you do, don’t ignore the horse.  Proper nutrition, care and exercise will help the animal thrive. Follow these guidelines to develop a total management plan for your older horse:

1. Observe your horse on a regular basis.  Watch for changes in body condition, behavior and attitude. Address problems, even seemingly minor ones, right away.
2. Feed a high quality diet.  Avoid dusty and moldy feeds.
3. Feed your older horse away from younger, more aggressive ones so it won’t have to compete for feed.
4. Feed at more frequent intervals so as not to upset the digestive system. Two-three times daily is best.
5. Provide plenty of fresh, clean, tepid water.  Excessively cold water reduces consumption which can lead to colic and other problems.
6. Adjust and balance rations to maintain proper body conditions.  A good rule of thumb is to be

able to feel the ribs but not see them.

1. Provide adequate, appropriate exercise to maintain muscle tone, flexibility and mobility.
2. Groom your horse frequently to promote circulation and skin health.
3. Be aware that older horses are prone to tumors.  Look for any unusual lumps or growths from head to tail as well as beneath the tail (especially on gray horses).
4. Schedule routine checkups with your equine veterinarian.  Call immediately if you suspect a problem.

A quick response to ailments, injuries or a decline in fitness can keep your older horse from having a serious or prolonged setback.  That means less worry for you and a better quality of life for your old friend.  For more information about caring for the older horse, ask your equine veterinarian for the “Older Horse” brochure, provided by the American Association of Equine Practitioners in partnership with Educational Partners Bayer Animal Health and Purina Mills, Inc.  Visit the AAEP’s horse health web site, www.myHorseMatters.com, for additional information about caring for the older horse.

Reprinted with permission from the American Association of Equine Practitioners.

Quemazon is the first foal born at PEVS for 2012!! He is a Hanoverian colt that was an embryo transfer and carried by one of our wonderful recipient mares, Tinker. Quemazon was bred by Gina Fisk of Antero Equestrian.

It is getting chilly, and unfortunately winter is coming. Here is some information on how to make sure your horses are prepared for winter and how to best manage them.
Nutrition is always important, especially in cold weather. Your horse will need more calories to help regulate his/her body temperature properly. Good quality roughage is key as the bacterial fermentation of fiber in roughage in the horse’s large intestine is what results in the majority of heat produced during digestion. Horses unable to consume enough hay to maintain body condition should be supplemented with grains and oils. Many horses do very well on a diet of 100% hay (provided a mineral supplement is added) and should always have at least 50% of the diet as hay. In order to check that your horse is getting enough nutrition, you will want to keep an eye on his/her overall body condition. This may be tough through blankets and thick hair coats, so you are going to have to put your hands on the horse. Ribs should be felt with a layer of fat over them, but you should not see them. The shoulders and neck should blend smoothly into the body. You also should have some fat covering over the hips, and withers. It is important to check your horse’s body condition regularly especially if your horse is older.
Water is also very important from proper digestion and to prevent impactions, etc. Horses may not want to drink as much because of the cold weather. Bucket heaters or changing the water throughout the day will help encourage drinking. Horses seem to prefer water between 45- 65 degrees F. Ways to increase water consumption include feeding your horse’s grain as a mash (add warm water to feed and let sit for 10 minutes). You can always add apple juice, kool aid, or electrolytes to water if your horse likes to drink it, but always provide fresh plain water as well.
Blanketing is also something to consider in the winter. If your horse has been clipped, has a thin hair coat, or is not used to being outdoors, he or she will need a blanket. Many horses do fine without blankets if they are accustomed to living outdoors and have an appropriate coat. It is always a good idea to provide a form of shelter to break the wind and to help them keep dry in wet conditions. If you are concerned about how your horse will do through the winter, you can always have him checked by a veterinarian to make sure he/she is in the appropriate body condition and to check the teeth, which are especially important to check regularly in older horses. If you have any questions about your horse or would like to speak with us feel free to call our office at 803-641-0644. 

Kay Clarke, DVM